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TEXTILE
: COMPATIBILITY OF FABRICS
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So far most of the references to fabric have been related
to the top or outer fabric of a garment. But as a garment is a composite
of different types of material reference must be made to the other materials,
often hidden, which are also part of the garment. Failure to ensure that
linings and interlinings are compatible in performance with the outer
fabric can absolutely nullify careful selection of the main fabric. This
seems an obvious statement but is it surprising how often incompatibility
occurs in commercially made garments. Often this is caused by false economy
in the use of inferior materials on the lines of what is hidden does not
matter. But equally it is plain that many manufacturers who take great
care in selection of main materials do not feel that equal care is necessary
in selection of subsidiary materials. Those who do know that it plays
in time and trouble and proof of this is shown in the way in which specifications
are laid for all materials which go into durable press garments. The main
fabric, linings, interlinings, trimmings, sewing threads, zip-fasteners
and even buttons must reach a certain standard of performance, particularly
in respect of high temperature curing which is necessary. This is admittedly
an extreme case but it illustrates a principle, which has over and over
again been shown to be well worth extending. For example it would seem
obvious that a garment designed to be regularly washed would need to be
made from a fully shrunk, or otherwise shrink resist material. It should
seem equally obvious that there is little point in using interlinings
and lining in such a garment which have received no anti shrink treatment
at all because the distortion caused by their shrinkage can cause distortion
of a seam so that a non-shrink sewing thread should also be part of such
a garment. If a garment is made from drip dry material intended as an
easy care garment it might again seem obvious to state that linings and
interlinings should be drip dry also, but this requirement is often ignored
as if the outer fabric had the power to some how communicate its properties
to the other materials. Stretch fabrics need special consideration as
to whether some garment areas should be prevented from stretching or matching
with equally stretchable interlinings. Non-woven and fusible interlinings
can also raise compatibility problems. The correct weight and type should
be carefully selected. Most of the manufacturers publish booklets giving
advice on their qualities because the majority of the complaints they
have dealt with were the result of incorrect quality selection rather
than faulty material, qualities are washable, some are not, some fusible
types can be dry cleaned satisfactorily, some cannot. The use of fusible
interlinings raises certain difficulties. Some types are treated with
a resin, which will discolour a white top material and therefore are not
suitable for all fabrics. Some man-made fiber materials are dyed with
dyestuffs, which 'sublime' under heat and the use of heat to fuse interlinings
can cause a color charge, which may or may not and the use of heat to
fuse interlinings can cause a colour charge, which may or may not reverse
when the fabric cools. A number of fabrics shrink in dry heat or steam.
It is impossible to cover every aspect of compatibility but the user of
fabrics should be thoroughly aware of the need for all components of a
garment to behave similarly under reasonable conditions.
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