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APPAREL : MOULDING AND SHAPE SETTING

The molding of near-seamless brass and panties girdles has been well established throughout the USA and Europe since the early with the cup shapes set on positive/negative metal moulds heated to a high temperature. Half the bras sold on the European continent are produced by this method. Fabrics used for molding normally contain a high percentage or thermoplastic fiber such as polyester or nylon and the special fabric finish is a critical factor. Woven fabrics incorporating fiber, laces or warp knitted fabrics in a fairly tight construction are the main types for this shaping technique. Moulded outerwear such as trousers, skirts and jackets can be shaped by several moulding methods but the basic essential common to all of the is the creation of a well shaped would which will imitate the best points of a 'well cut' garment i.e. it must include the drape, flate and shaping of a flattering smart garment. If the mould is badly shaped, then all garments moulded from will be equally badly shaped. The positive part of the mould is all that is required for outwear moulding, the pressure exerted by a negative mould on to the positive shape not generally necessary. Jersey tubes of suitable diameter, knitted in a firm construction and containing at least 70% polyster preferably more, can be pulled over the garment mould and heat set a aproximately 180*-190*c for a few minutes, in order to make the shape permanent through washing and dry cleaning. Pockets, collars, zips etc, can all be stitched into the garment before moulding or afterwards. If there is any risk or shade change through the high temperature all parts should go through the oven at the same time. Fabrics containing up to 30% cotton or wool may be moulded by this method. Provided the remaining percentage is polyester, or other suitable thermoplastic fibre, then the percentage of natural fibre gives the moulded garment a soft natural handle 100% polyster can be moulded very sucessfully and becomes fractionally firmer after moulding but at the same time gaining considerably improved crease resistance. .

 
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