The operation of pressing, i.e. the use of physical, pressure, combined
with heat or heat and moisture, forms an essential part of garment maintenance.
It is a form of temporary setting whereby fabrics are either set into
a crease or set flat and unwanted creases are removed. Heat or heat
and moisture, prepare fibers for the physical pressure exerted by the
sole of an iron or the plates of a press. All the physical factors in
pressing must be controlled to prevent either outright damage to the
fibers, or unwanted effects on the fabric and it is perhaps better to
examine the factors individually although they do not act in combination.
Heat: All textile fibers are affected by heat in some degree. The natural
cellulose fibers linen and cotton have a very resistance and can withstand
higher temperatures than any other clothing fibers although they will
ultimately 'yellow' and scorch if the temperature is consistently raised.
An important factor in conjunction with heat is time. A prolonged exposure
to heat is much more damaging to a fiber than a short one. In pressing
of any kind there is heat loss and a time lag between the passage of
heat from the source, i.e. the iron sole or the plates of the press,
to the fabric. The longer the fabric is in contact with the source of
heat the higher is its temperature raiser and if the source is heated
to a temperature above the limit for the fabric, prolonged contact will
damage the fabric, but a short contact will probably have no harmful
effect because of heat loss between the surfaces the fact that the fabric
is not in contact long enough for the temperature to build up to a dangerous
point. HEAT AND MOISTURE Steam irons and steam presses, or the use of
an ordinary iron and a damp cloth combine moisture and heat. Steam presses
are supplied with steam under pressure, usually about 4.5kg per square
cm. This gives a theoretical temperature of about 145*c but the heat
lost as the steam heats the top and bottom press surfaces brings the
temperature down to 100* to 110*c. This temperature is safe enough for
most fibers except acrylic fibers where a lower temperature than 100*c
region which again is safe enough for most fibers except acrylics. Cellulose
acetate can be delustred in advertently by injudicious heat and moisture
treatment and acrylic fibers should never be treated with heat and moisture
together. Certain types of resin glaze are also sensitive to heat, or
to hear and moisture because of the thermoplastic nature of the resin
and these types of fabric and indeed any type of fabric of which the
reaction is in doubt, should be tested on a spare piece before a garment
is treated.