WEAVES
Weaves are patterns or designs formed on the cloth by interlacement
of warp and weft. There are 2 types of weaves:-
(1) Basic Weaves
(2) Decorative weave
In Basic weave there are 3 types of weaves Plain Weave : It is the
simplest form of weaving. It consist of alternate in terbacing of warp
and weft yarn. One warp up and one down. The entire width of the fabric
this is referred to as Plain weave. 80% of woven fabric is plain weave
fabric unless colours are added of one side plain weave fabric are reversable.
A plain weave has two variations.
a) Rib weave variation : The rib appear once is produced by using heavy
or thick yarns in the warp or filling direction. By grouping yarn in
specific aulas of wrap of having more & warp yarn them the filling yarns
e.g. Poplin and codroujv.
b) Basket weave variation:- In this two or more warp yarns are interlaced
as a unit with one of more filling yarn. This type of weave looks attractive
e.g. Matte.
c) Twill weave It is one in which one wrap floats across two of more
weft yarns with a progressive of interlacing bv the left or by the right
to form a dustinct diagonal line. Twill weave is characterised by diagonal
lines on the face of the fabric e.g. Dertium and drill teams. The diagonal
can be very steep and it could be medium. A medium diagonal is called
a regular twill. A twill weave fabric has a fabrics have either a Right
hand twill of left to lower left it is called the Right hand twill or
left to lower left it is called the Right hand twill or left hand twill.
If it moves from the upper left to the lower hand it is left hand. Variation
of the twill weave is called Herring Bone weave. In this the twill is
seversed at frequent intewals to form a 2 ig-2ag effect e.g. Drill teams
of Dentrial material.
d) Sateen Weave It is characterused by long floats on the face of the
fabrics. It is the warp yarn that floats of the fabric. A fabric in
which filling yarns floats in the fabric is called satinweave. A float
is that portion of the yarn that crosses over two or more yarns to the
opposite direction the long float create a shining surface & lend to
reflect light & therefore look lurtrous. The satin weave is not durable
because of long floats. The floats become snaggy easily. Satin has a
smooth surface & is frequentlly used for lining.
DECORATIVE WEAVE
a) Dobby weave: It has a small design of figure such as geometrical
designs, floral sign woven into the fabric. The designs are produced
by the combination of two of more classic weaves e.g. Plain weave satin
weave or plain & twill weave.
b) Jacquard weave: These fabric have extremely complicated decorative
design and are woven manufactured using Jacquard attachment on the loom.
Sacquared designs combine or more fabrics such as table linen etc. Jacquard
designs have large intricate motifs e.g. In case but codes etc.